Nepal is the ultimate destination for mountaineers and it has captivated the imagination of mountaineers. Every year thousands of expeditions trudge up the Himalayas. Nothing on earth can beat the exhilaration of scaling any one of these peaks. Whether your goal is a “trekking peaks” or one of the 8000 meters “expedition peaks” Encounters Nepal can take you there.
Two organizations control climbing expedition in Nepal. The ministry of tourism and civil aviation (MoTCA) is responsible for major expedition and the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) is responsible for trekking peaks. The rules is the higher the peak, the greater the fee.
The rules for mountaineering on major peaks require a minimum of six months advance application to the ministry of tourism and civil aviation for a climbing permit completed application, endorsement of National Alpine Club, of the country organization the expedition. Short biographies of all the members of expedition team (with photograph and signature) map and photograph of the mountain indicating climbing route and approach route map.
CLIMBING 'EXPEDITION PEAKS'
With eight of the highest peaks in the world, Nepal has been the focus of some of the most outstanding achievements in the world of mountaineering. There are some 326 peaks in Nepal opened for mountaineering today. His Majesty's Government of Nepal opened around 175 peaks in the last two years to mark the Mount Everest Golden Jubilee Celebrations.
The Mountaineering Section of the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation issues climbing permit to scale the Nepal Himalayas in all seasons. Certain official documents are required to seek permission for climbing peaks. Around 121 peaks do not require liaison officer for expedition. Fees or royalties depend upon the altitude of the peak starting at US $ 1000 for peaks below 6501 meters and rising by US$ 500 for every 500 meters.
Mountaineering Regulations:
Climbing Permit Fees (Royalties) and Expedition Team sizes:
- More than one team is permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) in one season by separate (non-conventional) routes each.
- A royalty of U$ 50,000 is fixed for Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) for a team consisting of seven members. The team may include five further members at a cost of US$ 10,000 per additional member. The royalty includes the trekking fee for all team members. The team members will also be granted a three-month visa.
- There is an additional US$ 20,000 charge for teams proposing to climb Mt. Everest by the normal southeast ridge route.
- Any team already permitted to scale Mt. Everest must pay US$ 10,000 if it intends to change its originally agreed ascent route. A charge of US$ 20,000 applies if it intends to change the ascent route to the normal southeast ridge route.
- In all other regions, including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to seven members for the additional royalty.
Royalty for the Mountaineering expedition
(A) For the Mount Everest (Sagarmatha)
(1) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition team not exceeding seven in number from the route other than the general route (Southeast route) will be US$ 50,000.
(2) The royalty for the mountaineering expedition from general route (Southeast route) for the mountaineering expedition team will be as follows: -
Member of the mountaineering expedition team Royalty (U. S. Dollars):
| One Member |
25,000 |
| Two Members |
40,000 |
| Three Members |
48,000 |
| Four Members |
56,000 |
| Five Members |
60,000 |
| Six Members |
66,000 |
| Seven Members |
70,000 |
(3) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beyond the number as it is mentioned in clause (1) and (2).
(B) For the other Mountain: -
(1) The royalty for the other mountain shall be as follows: -
| Mountaineering Royalty (in US$) |
|
Classification of Peaks
(excluding Everest) |
For expedition including up to seven members |
For each additional member exceeding seven members (up to a total of twelve) |
|
Peaks above 8,000 m |
10,000 (5,000 as per new changed policy for Makalu and Kanchenjunga) |
1,500 |
| Peaks of 7501 to 8,000 m |
4,000 |
500 |
| Peaks of 7001 to 7500 m |
3,000 |
400 |
| Peaks of 6,501 to 7000 m |
2,000 |
300 |
| Peaks below 6,501 m |
1,500 |
200 |
(2) Other not more than five members may be added in the mountaineering expedition team beside as prescribed in clause (1).
Note: If there is any change in the royalty amount before receiving the briefing from the Ministry even after one has already paid the royalty under this Regulation, the mountaineering expedition team shall pay the changed amount of the royalty.
The leader of the expedition team is required to pay the full amount of the climbing permit within two months of the date of climbing. In cases of failure to pay within this time period permission may be annulled.
Liaison Officers:
Why we need a liaison officer?
The primary function of a liaison officer is to ensure that the mountaineering regulations and laws of Nepal are adhered to.
What to include when appointing a liaison officer?
The expedition team must cover all costs of the liaison officer. This includes wages, equipment allowance, transport, meals and suitable accommodation for the entire expedition period. The liaison officer must also be insured against accidents.
Environmental Deposit:
Teams attempting peaks within the Khumbu Region must deposit US$ 4,000 for Everest expeditions, US$ 3,000 for other 8,000m peaks and US$ 2,000 for peaks less than 8,000m. This deposit is refundable upon the team removing all their garbage on completion of the expedition.
Radio and Telephone Permits:
Operating licenses must be obtained and paid for to use two-way radio equipment and telephones.
Filming Permits:
Expedition teams wishing to make documentary films of their climb must obtain government permission and pay an associated permit fee.
Seasons:
There are four main mountaineering seasons - spring (March to May), summer (June to August), autumn (September to November) and winter (December to February).
Please E-mail us for more information.
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CLIMBING 'TREKKING PEAKS'
Permits to climb the 33 trekking peaks are issued by (NMA) Nepal Mountaineering Association on a “first come, first served” basis. It is necessary to appoint a government recognized trekking agency of Nepal as local liaison for the expedition in Kathmandu. You must also employ a Sirdar (Climbing Sherpa) who is currently registered with NMA, and if any Nepalese are to climb above base camp, you must insure them and supply them with climbing equipment. The trekking agency will look after all the requirement during the expedition. (Encounters Nepal is fully recognized trekking agency and can assist for all required paper works and permits).
Rules:
In exercise of the powers conferred by His Majesty's Government, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya. These rules will come into force at once.
Definition:
Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for His Majesty's Government Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
Refund:
In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the fees already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA, should accompany a climbing permit.
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:
- To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
- To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
- To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
- To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
- To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
- To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
- To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post. The Sirdar Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:
Food and tent accommodation:
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.
Insurance:
All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rupees. 200,000.
Nomination of representative in Kathmandu: Each party granted climbing permit would nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.
Submission of report:
On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA in the form. Power to cancel the permit: - NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to His Majesty Government to take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.
Protection of Environment:
Base Camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.
Revision of the Regulations:
Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of HMG/Nepal.
Note: All rates effective from 18 September 2002
Group 'A' NMA Peaks:
Send us an inquiry by clicking on the respective mountain in order to obtain a proposed itinerary and cost.
Fee Structure for Group 'A' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for up to seven members: USD 500.00
Royalty for each additional member upto 12 persons: USD 100.00
Group 'B' NMA Peaks:
| Name of Peak |
Altitude |
Fee US$ |
Region |
| Mt. Hiunchuli |
6441 m. |
350.00 |
Annapurna Himal, Gandaki |
| Mt. Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) |
6501 m. |
350.00 |
Annapurna Himal, Gandaki |
| Mt. Mera peak |
6654 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Kusum Kangru |
6367 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Kwangde |
6011 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Chulu West |
6419 m. |
350.00 |
Manang District, Gandaki |
| Mt. Chulu East |
6584 m. |
350.00 |
Manang District, Gandaki |
| Mt. Imja Tse (Island Peak) |
6160 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Parchemuche |
6187 m. |
350.00 |
Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur |
| Mt. Lobuje |
6119 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Ramdung |
5925 m. |
350.00 |
Rolwaling Himal, Janakpur |
| Mt. Pisang Peak |
6091 m. |
350.00 |
Manang District, Gandaki |
| Mt. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) |
5663 m. |
350.00 |
Annapurna Himal, Gandaki |
| Mt. Khongma Tse (Mehra Peak) |
5849 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Ganja La Chuli (Naya Kanga) |
5844 m. |
350.00 |
Langtang Himal, Bagmati |
| Mt. Pokhalde |
5806 m. |
350.00 |
Khumbu Himal, Sagarmatha |
| Mt. Mardi Himal |
5587 m. |
350.00 |
Annapurna Himal, Gandaki |
| Mt. Paldor Peak |
5896 m. |
350.00 |
Langtang Himal, Bagmati |
Fee Structure for Group 'B' NMA Peaks:
Royalty for 1-4 members: USD 350.00
Royalty for 5-8 members: USD 350.00 + USD 40.00 per person
Royalty for 9-12 members: USD 510.00 + USD 25.00 per person
Note: Maximum number of members in one team is 12.
Garbage Deposit for all 33 NMA Peaks:
A Garbage Deposit fee of USD 250.00 payable to NMA is required to obtain permits for all 33 NMA peaks. Refunds on the Garbage Deposit shall be as per NMA provisions.
Links to necessary forms:
(a) Climbing Permit form
(b) Climbing Report form
(c) Garbage Deposit form
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